ECG Day 9: In Glacial Terrain

Note: This entry is for Wednesday, September 15. An eastern screech owl is trilling outside my tent, 5:30 am. Will upload photos when I get an Internet connection. 

Note 2: Currently sheltering in a coffee shop as a severe thunderstorm rolls through. Doing our best to support the local economy via cinnamon rolls and chocolate croissants.

To be told that some sixteen or twenty thousand years ago Cape Cod was the terminus of one of the great ice sheets that covered North America is an interesting fact, but to traverse it on bike is to experience it first hand. All around you is nothing but massive sand and gravel, sculpted  into ridges that turned our ride into a kiddie rollercoaster of ups and downs. If you let her fly going down, you just about made it to the top of the next one. Erratic boulders the size of your garage sat here and there like sentries; smaller blocks of pink and white granite attested to just how far this material had been moved, scraped off the plutons of New England. We were afforded spectacular views of the bay and surrounding cranberry bogs. "This is paradise!" Bill exclaimed at one vista, and I was not inclined to disagree. We both enjoyed riding past the tidy Cape Cod style homes and gardens, many already decorated for fall with local pumpkins.

Ten or fifteen miles of moderate work brought us to the Cape Cod Rail Trail, and from there it was smooth sailing to our campground in Nickerson State Park.  Along the way we stopped in at the Devil's Purse brewery, and a few miles later had lunch at hot dog stand, both right on the rail trail.

Our reserved campsite was a rutted mess, but we were able to switch sites easily, thanks to the friendly office staff, and boy did that work out. It was too far to walk to the bathhouse, but no matter - we were just a short scramble from a glacial kettle pond, and a short, chilly swim did the trick.  Even better, we found ourselves camped alongside the friendliest group of riders from Maine, also doing the Greenway, headed southbound to NYC. They ride with car support, taking turns driving, and hauling a trailer of gear and supplies. We were hailed over just as they were laying out a dinner buffet fit for a wedding. Bill and I had already finished our supper of salami, dill pickle and provelone sandwiches, but when they offered up the gin and tonics, we felt it was our duty to participate.

You know, for some days now I've been thinking that this is the last time I'd do a bike tour. Getting to be just too difficult. But meeting the Mainers - who were all older than us - and seeing how much they enjoyed travelling as a group to experience different places from a bicycle seat... well, I may have to rethink. So today's shout out goes to them, with a hearty thanks for their hospitality, humor, and inspiration.




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